Timeless. Classic. Versatile. Wardrobe staple. Undisputed winner. The list of adjectives is never-ending for the 80-year-old legacy of the universal fashion phenomena titled the Little Black Dress. LBD as it's called in the fashion vocabulary beckons a million women everyday to style. It's a subject, which can never tire the fashion media. It's a garment, which will always have a place in a designer's look book. Such is the power of this quintessential garment. No wonder then that the term is in the dictionary!
The LBD dates back to the early 1900s, as the attire for widows in mourning on the English-scape. With the increase in the death toll during World War I, more women were seen in black dresses, simple crepe creations with high necklines, long fitted sleeves and cut to just above the knee, with no ornamentation.
In 1926, fashion world's queen bee, Coco Chanel wielded her magic needle, taking the simple dress to the high street. Vogue called it Chanel's Ford (the reference was to Henry Ford's cars) ? a uniform for women of all social classes.
THE AUDREY HEPBURN LBD
Technicoloured Hollywood popularised it further because other colours looked distorted on the screen. The LBD continued to receive appreciation in the post war era by designers like Christian Dior.
And one cannot help but recollect the charming Audrey Hepburn exuding an air of class in that black Givenchy dress holding a stem cigarette for the 1960s Hollywood hit Breakfast at Tiffany's. The generation gap of the 1960s created a dichotomy in the design of the LBD. The young mod generation preferred the mini version and designers catering to the youth culture pushed the envelope by shortening the skirt. From then to Elizabeth Hurley's sexy safety pin-held LBD by Versace few years ago: LBD as a symbol of practical chic has not looked back since.
HOW THE EAST WAS WON
The LBD has its takers even in the East. Nainika Karan, from the label ?Gauri and Nainika,' says, "LBD is a wardrobe staple for every woman of every race. When you just cannot decide what to wear, LBD comes handy. Black is slimming and sexy. Today you also have unique detailing in drapes, bows and pleats. My favourite is the typical tube-neck pencil version."
Another typical version is that of teaming the LBD with black tights. "But that's not for the curvy Indian woman," says Delhi-based designer Anupama Dayal who always slips into LBDs after her shows. Anupama believes in accessorising the LBD with pop colours to suit the Indian scape. She says, "Black as a single tone does not suit the Indian wheatish complexion. We carry colour with immense confidence. So keep the LBD as the invisible base and throw in a little colour with accessories." She suggests intense hues like shocking pink or lime green scarves to go with the LBD, something she saw at the Tranoi fair in Paris recently. To beat the chill this winter, a long cardigan or an organza/chanderi trench in colours like flame orange, violet and pink would also look superb, observes Anupama.
Accessories play a huge role in taking this timeless piece from dawn to dusk. Slip on a cardigan for day and get into a shrug for the night with stilettos and a blingy clutch.
Designer Asmita Marwa suggests, "A good handbag and shoes do the trick. Or don a string of pearls for vintage style. I also love wearing heavy kundan jewellery, like a choker or chaandbalis with my LBD."
FIGURING OUT INDIA
LBD is the epitome of timeless fashion. A tall woman in a pencil LBD truly spells class and sophistication. But not all women have the figure of Kate Moss. It's actually a misconception that LBDs suit everyone. So our experts pick the right style for every body shape.
For the pear-shaped or the one with a heavy derriere, Nainika suggests, "A-line on the skirt with a tube or halter neck is great. If she has great legs, go for shorter lengths. Otherwise, knee-length is an option for all body types."
Anupama adds, "An older Indian woman with a pear-shaped body can go for the comfortable long length. Or split the dress into a clever skirt and top ensemble ? say with a bias cut skirt and a satin vest on top, making it look like one."
While knee-length is the smartest option, what do women with chubby legs do? Anupama suggests the long black dress. Nainika says, "Keep it calf-length. The upper part of the dress can have detailing to take away the emphasis."
The second big problem of the Indian woman is the big bust. How to tackle that? "Drapes are better than a fitted dress for it takes away the focus. Boat necks and V-necks with fitted styles below are good options," suggests Nainika. (We advise Gaurav Gupta's drapes if you fall in this category).
On the fabric front, Anupama adds, "Busty women must choose sturdy fabrics like a thick crepe in place of sheers and satin. Thick fabrics take care of the love handles."
While skinny girls have no reasons to complain, they can enhance their fashion quotient by clever layering Sabyasachi style with shirts or coats. No baby-dolls and balloons for all this year, for the silhouette of 2007 is no more in vogue. Time to pick your own LBD and step up the haute tempo this season!
LBDs for varied body types
1) PEAR-SHAPED BODY: A-line silhouette halter neck or tube on top or the clever skirt-and-top ensemble.
2) BIG ON TOP: Drapes/pleats and boat necks/V necks to take the emphasis away in thick fabric.
3) SKINNY: Go for layering and avoid skin-tight styles.
4) CHUBBY LEGS: Calf-length or long length with detailing on the upper part of the dress.
5) LONG LASSES: Pencil styles.
6) SHORT GALS: Mini versions that stop at the knee or mid-thigh.
Last year's look and colour is this year's outdated. It's in the nature of fashion to change. But one colour never goes out of fashion, one dress is in every woman's wardrobe. That's the little black dress.
Smita Balram Kumar goes back in style time to find out just how this fashion statement became so indispensable