FOOD & SPIRITS

The afternoon before the election results were announced last fortnight, the airwaves resounded with the galloping of equine metaphors. Pundits on every television channel begged out of making any predictions because we?d just witnessed a neck-to-neck race. As they wondered who would be the first to get past the post, they all assured us that there would be a great deal of horse-trading in the days that followed. To escape the looming political nightmare, we decided to seek refuge in the newly opened Derby Café. It proved to be a good idea. Though it was studded with equine motifs ? a child?s rocking horse was stabled along one wall, and horses trotted across monochromatic paintings on several surfaces ? the chaos of the talkshows didn?t follow us through the doorpost (which was decorated with a horseshoe).

Instead, the giant television screen at Derby Café devoted itself to the nation?s other obsession: cricket (though it was thankfully turned to silent mode). The low light and lack of other patrons in its second week in operation made the establishment the perfect place for a solitary, contemplative lunch. Or so we thought until our meal was served. Located on the rooftop of Khar?s Hotel Evergreen across the terrace from the popular late-night drinking venue U Turn, Derby has a menu that features Mediterra-nean favourites. The starters include chicken aglio olio with pepperoni (Rs 175) and risotto balls (Rs 160), there?s a small selection of soups, while the list of mains features roast vegetable lasagne (Rs 250) and herb-crusted rawas steak (Rs 375). Derby?s got all the standard offerings, but we realised that it still has to get the details right.

That was obvious from our Caesar salad (Rs 145), which had crisp leaves, delicious dressing that wasn?t loaded up excessively with cheese but very soggy croutons. Ditto the caramelised onion and chilli garlic bread fingers from the sandwich section. The topping was a mix of intriguing textures but the base tasted like it had been dunked in a horse trough before it arrived on our plate. Our espresso was too muddy to be recognisable ? it had emerged from a standard-issue Georgia coffee dispenser of the sort you find in cafeterias, not a professional machine for use in restaurants.

The grilled chicken with woodsy sauce, as Derby labels its cacciatore, was the most competent item we were served. It was stuffed with spinach and mushrooms and came with a generous portion of rice and grilled vegetables. Derby?s got a good location and an opportunity to lasso in the patrons from U Turn next door. But before it starts to race, it must first learn how to trot. Paul Ebrahim